EFFECT OF HOLD SLOPER ANGLE AND HOLD DEPTH ON MAXIMAL FINGER FORCE CAPACITY OF ROCK CLIMBERS
Keywords: rock climbing, grip, sloper angle, performance
AbstractThe purpose of this study was to identify the combined effect of sloper angle and hold depth on maximal finger force capacity (MFFC) of rock climbers. Eight experienced climbers performed vertical maximal finger contractions on four different size of holds (1, 2, 3 and 4 cm) with five different sloper angles from 0° to 40° (with 10° increment). The results of this study showed that mean MFFC ranged from 25.2 ± 4.1 kg to 49.1 ± 9.0 kg and differed significantly according to the sloper angle and hold depth. Besides, decreasing the hold depth and increasing the sloper angle of a hold leads to a fall of the MFFC. These results confirm the previous findings of hold depth effect and improve them for sloper holds by pointing out the interaction between hold depth and slope angle.
Coaching and Sports Activities
Authors can retain copyright, while granting the International Society of Biomechanics in Sports (ISBS) the right of first publication.