BELAY TECHNIQUES ON STOP FALLING OF A CLIMBER

Abstract

The purpose of the present study was to identify the kinematic differences between two popular rock climbing belay techniques used in the United States: brake, under, slide (BUS) and slip, slap, slide (SSS) and their efficiency in stopping the fall of a climber. Five male subjects with no previous belaying experience from two different beginning rock climbing classes were recruited to participate in the study (n = 10). Each subject passed a practical belay test before participating in the study. Data of time to stop the fall of a climber, vertical displacement of the falling climber, maximum negative vertical velocity of the falling climber, and percentage of time each belayer was in the braked position were collected. Results showed that the climber had significant greater falling displacement, longer time to stop, and higher maximum negative velocity when SSS was performed.